Not all plants occupy the soil for the entire growing season. Take advantage of that fact when planning your garden to maximize your harvest. There are two methods of succession planting. Either stagger planting times for a single crop or plant a different crop after one is harvested.
Some plants like chives and horseradish are perennial and will occupy their spot in the garden all year. Other plants are quick to mature and are only in the garden for the first part of the growing season. Plants like early peas, radishes, and lettuce are ready to harvest before the growing season is fully underway.
You could get a second crop of lettuce out of the garden before the heat of high summer sets in by planting your second crop near a slower growing plant like eggplant or squash that will be bushed out when your second crop of lettuce is getting ready for harvest. This will give the tender lettuce some much appreciated shade from the summer sun, and will help to prevent it from bolting. Once the lettuce is done, the space can be planted with a late season crop like carrots to be harvested in late fall.
Radishes, which mature in about 28 days are so reliable you could tuck them in here or there around other slower growing vegetables. by the time the main plant needs the space, you will have harvested a whole bunch of radishes.
Succession planting also let’s you spread out the work of planting and harvesting over a longer period of time. It’s much more enjoyable to harvest a handful of radishes or peas every other week or so, rather than having the whole crop ready to pull from the ground all at once.
You’re more likely to eat the fruits of your labor if you are not inundated with so much extra crop. A good rule of thumb is to estimate how much you can reasonably eat ( or give away) for a two to three-week period. Plant that much crop. Then two weeks later, plant a second crop in another space.
Spring crops are in the ground early and are done growing early in the season. They’re usually planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Plants in this category include: spinach, peas, radish, carrots, rutabaga and turnips.
Summer crops are in the ground for most of the growing season. They’re usually planted after the last frost. Plants in this category include: cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, corn, zucchini, pumpkin and watermelon.
Fall crops can be planted late in the growing season for a fall harvest. This could be a second planting of early, cool weather crops or plants that have a short time to maturity. Plants in this category include: kale, lettuce, chinese cabbage, carrots, radish, rutabaga and turnips.
Of course, we have a chart!
| Succession Planting Guide | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| plant |
estimated
days to harvest |
time
between plantings |
notes | ||||||
| arugula |
30
|
2 weeks
|
Plant as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant 4 weeks before first frost. Bolts quickly in warm temperatures. Seeds can be collected for next years crop. | ||||||
| Bush Beans |
60
|
2 weeks
|
Plant first crop when the soil is at least 60 degrees. Plant last crop 8 weeks before first frost. | ||||||
| Lima Beans |
60-90
|
all season
|
summer crop. Needs soil temp of at least 65 degrees. | ||||||
| beans, pole |
60-80
|
all season
|
frequent picking encourages more production. | ||||||
| beets |
55-70
|
3 weeks
|
can withstand cold weather short of a hard freeze. Avoid seeding during daytime temperatures of 80 degrees F | ||||||
| broccoli |
60-70
|
2 weeks
|
develops best during cool seasons.Plant as soon as the ground can be worked from transplants, and then again in fall. | ||||||
| cabbage |
75-85
|
3 weeks
|
Plant in spring from transplants & fall. Hardened plants are tolerant of frosts. | ||||||
| carrots |
50-75
|
3 weeks
|
Plant in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. & fall. Direct seed. | ||||||
| cauliflower |
40-65
|
2 weeks
|
Cool weather crop. Plant in spring 2-3 weeks before last frost. & fall. Does best as a transplant. | ||||||
| collards |
60-100
|
all season
|
cool-season crop. Can withstand frosts and light to medium freezes. | ||||||
| corn, sweet |
70-100
|
2 weeks
|
Plant in late spring or early summer. In the ground for the whole season. | ||||||
| cucumbers |
60
|
4-5 weeks
|
summer crop. Plant when the soil temperatures have reached 70 degrees F. Does not tolerate cold. | ||||||
| edamame |
70
|
all season
|
summer crop. Wait until soil temps reach at least 60 degrees to plant. | ||||||
| eggplants |
65-80
|
8 weeks
|
summer crop. cold-sensitive. Requires a long warm season for best yields. | ||||||
| kale |
40-50
|
2 weeks
|
spring & fall crop. Harvest very young leaves in salads or allow plants to mature and use as a cooked green. | ||||||
| kohlrabi |
65-75
|
2 weeks
|
spring & fall crop. Require cool temperatures and plenty of moisture and sunshine. | ||||||
| lettuce, head |
45-55
|
2 weeks
|
does best in cooler weather. Plant early in spring and late in fall when temps are in the 50′s | ||||||
| lettuce, leaf |
45-55
|
2 weeks
|
Plant in early spring & late fall. fairly hardy, cool-weather crop. | ||||||
| muskmelons |
80-90
|
2 weeks
|
summer crop. Tender, heat-loving vegetable. | ||||||
| okra |
70
|
all season
|
summer crop. plant seeds after the soil has warmed in the spring crop. | ||||||
| onions, dry |
90-120
|
all season
|
planted as soon as the round can be worked in the spring, from sets. | ||||||
| onions, green |
85
|
2-3 weeks
|
Can be grown from seed or as sets. Plant seed as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. | ||||||
| peas |
55-70
|
all season
|
Plant in spring & fall. frost-hardy, cool-season vegetable.Early plantings produce larger yields than later plantings. | ||||||
| peppers |
60-70
|
all season
|
Tender, warm-season vegetable. Plant after danger of frost. | ||||||
| potatoes |
90
|
all season
|
cool season crop. Plant when the soil is 60-70 degrees. | ||||||
| pumpkins |
90-120
|
all season
|
warm-season vegetable. easily damaged by cold. Plant after all danger of frost. | ||||||
| radishes |
25-30
|
2 weeks
|
best in cool weather. Plant in early spring and late summer for a fall crop. Fall radishes are more pungent. | ||||||
| spinach |
48-60
|
2 weeks
|
Plant in spring & fall. Very cold hardy. | ||||||
| squash, summer |
45-60
|
4-8 weeks
|
cold tender. Plant in early summer, then again in late summer. | ||||||
| squash, winter |
90-120
|
all season
|
seeds are cold sensitive. Plant in summer after danger of frost. | ||||||
| tomatoes |
60-90
|
2 weeks
|
Plant in early summer from transplants after danger of frost. | ||||||
| turnips |
35-40
|
2 weeks
|
best in cool weather. Plant in early spring, late summer or early fall. | ||||||
Some gardeners plant the whole garden in the spring and are done with it until late summer or early fall when they harvest the crops. But you can grow more food in less space by planning your planting according to the plants natural life cycles, and temperature requirements.
Using this method, The garden is more productive and more efficient. There is always something going into the garden or coming out. Weren’t you looking for another excuse to putter in the garden anyway?

June 4, 2012 at 9:46 am
I love succession planting. This is a fabulous piece you’ve put together! Super-like.
June 4, 2012 at 9:20 pm
Thanks Shannon. I know I’ve been a bit MIA lately. I still owe you a post. Thanks for stopping by.
June 5, 2012 at 8:00 am
Aw, you owe me nothing but good great information from the Dirt Diva of the Northeast. And you’re certainly giving me all of that!
June 4, 2012 at 2:33 pm
[...] Succession Planting – Twice the harvest, half the space (smallspacebigharvest.com) 45.066006 -93.442138 Share this:StumbleUponDiggFacebookLinkedInTumblrTwitterRedditEmailPrintPinterestLike this:LikeBe the first to like this post. June 4, 2012 levahnbros Categories: DIY, Garden Tags: Beginner garden, Garden, Kids, Maple Grove Minnesota, PH, Plant, Plymouth, Seed, Soil, Sowing [...]
June 4, 2012 at 10:42 pm
[...] Succession Planting – Twice the harvest, half the space (smallspacebigharvest.com) 45.066006 -93.442138 Share this:StumbleUponDiggFacebookLinkedInTumblrTwitterRedditEmailPrintPinterestLike this:Like3 bloggers like this post. June 4, 2012 levahnbros Categories: DIY, Garden Tags: Beginner garden, Garden, Kids, Maple Grove Minnesota, PH, Plant, Plymouth, Seed, Soil, Sowing [...]
June 6, 2012 at 7:05 pm
Very nice! As one who has very little ground to work with, I’m always seeking ways to get more garden out of the space I have. Although the content here is not new to me, I like the way you’ve laid it out all in one place.
June 6, 2012 at 7:54 pm
Thank you for stopping by. It can be a challenge to grow in a small space, I agree. I’ve had good success growing on trellises to maximize the space.
June 6, 2012 at 9:32 pm
Good idea! I’ll plan better next year.
June 9, 2012 at 2:32 pm
Thanks for stopping by. Do let me know how you make out with it. Or if you come up with ideas of your own. I’m always on the lookout for ideas that maximize the space.
June 9, 2012 at 7:10 pm
One of the ideas I’ve used over the years, was planting vertically. You can hang pots from fences and railings to increase your planting space. I’ve also had success planting tomatoes, for instance, in large pots. I’ve seen some clever ideas on Pinterest using shipping palettes as planters, leaned up against a wall.
June 10, 2012 at 6:52 pm
I love Pinterest. It’s so easy to lose a lot of time there! That reminds me of a house I saw recently, the woman had all kinds of tea pot. They were on the wall, hanging from the hand rail of the stairs, in the trees, everywhere. And they were all planted with lovely flowers.
June 10, 2012 at 7:28 pm
I saw those tea pot planters too. Someone shared it on my Facebook wall. I love tea (from my English roots) and gardening so it was so “me.”
Pinterest is addicting. Love, love, love it!
June 8, 2012 at 10:20 am
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June 9, 2012 at 2:36 pm
I love turnips and their cousins rutabagas! I’ve only been able to order them once at a restaurant. It was called, The Holy Grail, a traditional Irish pub. Yum! Thanks for stopping by.
June 14, 2012 at 3:20 pm
Oh, we’ve always wanted to do this but never thought it through enough beforehand. And then afterwards said, “Oh, we should have…” This gives us an idea of HOW to do it. A giant thank you!
June 14, 2012 at 7:19 pm
Hey Jennifer. It is definitely a “plan in advance” kind of thing. Around here, that’s what January is for! And this is an excellent thing to note in your garden journal. ’cause who can remember everything after a year?! Thanks for stopping by.
July 1, 2012 at 2:56 pm
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July 9, 2012 at 5:47 pm
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July 16, 2012 at 10:02 pm
Libby, what an informative post! I really appreciate your common sense attitude on succession planting. Not even the most avid of radish lovers can deal with a half-bushel at a time. Many of my crops will be canned or frozen for later use so I do try to get the timing right, I don’t need to have it all coming in avalanche fashion! Lovely garden!
July 16, 2012 at 10:28 pm
Thanks for stopping by and your kind words. I’ve frozen all the beans, carrots and root crops I can as they come in. The chickens have discovered a fondness for green beans. Much to my chagrin, and the tomatoes will become sauce, as soon as the picking begins.
July 16, 2012 at 10:14 pm
Grin —How is that Succession Planting thing going?
Happy Gardening
July 16, 2012 at 10:21 pm
I am up to my eyeballs in carrots, peas, green & yellow beans. I’m still pulling lettuce, even though it’s hotter than Hades and it should have bolted, but they’ve been shaded by the zucchini’s and seem quite happy. Thanks for asking and coming by.
September 18, 2012 at 8:14 am
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